Luzern
Until the night before we went, I hadn't considered Luzern much as a destination. When we have been in Switzerland in the past we stayed mostly north of Zürich. Randy's work needs dictate where we go when we take these trips. This time he had a meeting located Luzern and Interlaken.
Now that our trip is done, I am wishing we could have gone to Luzern long ago, and also hoping that it might happen again. Walking around Luzern on a cloudless November day was like walking around a happy dream.
More after the jump
The kids and I spent the day wandering around Luzern until Randy was done with his meeting south of there and met up with us for supper. From the Luzern train station, we walked over a bridge toward the Old Town to take in the views of Lake Luzern and the Alps.
While many other German-speaking cantons in Switzerland joined the Reformation, Luzern remained more strongly Catholic. The churches here were different from those in Zürich.
We had time to visit one of these churches, the Church of St. Leodegar, also known as Hofkirche. The Catholic presence at this site dates back to at least 735, the earliest know written mention of a monastery dedicated to St. Mauritius. During his reign, Pepin the Short donated to the monastery services of five freedmen. In the 1100s it was attached to the Provostship of Murbach and was then renamed in honor of St. Leodegar. There are periods in the history where the records of ownership and control were unclear, and, as history of this part of the world went, the Habsburgs made an appearance (1291-1415). The church was built, rebuilt, remodeled, et cetera, until it featured high twin towers sometime in the early 1500s.
The older church burned on Easter Morning in 1633, so the West Front entrance was (obviously) built after that. The towers were greatly reduced, but some part of those standing today were from the 16th century construction. The historical information I have notes that the current towers are not nearly as high as they were before.
The narthex was beautiful. There were six statues, five of which were saved from the 1633 fire, in recesses along the walls. It was like entering through a gallery. The older church was Gothic in style, so these statues would have been on the facade. In this picture are St. Nicholas, St. Mauritius, and St. Clement (the newest of the six).
Both St. Leodegar and St. Mauritius are commemorated on the carved wooden doors. Above the entrance, still in wood, is St. Beatus driving away a dragon.
Looking inside.
I love baptisteries. In many modern churches we only have a font, sometimes just off to the side, and not a dedicated chapel. The Hofkirche font was carved from black marble by Niklaus Geissler. It became the model for Swiss Catholic baptismal fonts afterwards.
There were at least two altars that were salvaged after the fire. Originally in the Gothic style, they were embedded ("cleverly," the church's English information says) into new altars that were in keeping with 1644 tastes.
One of these was a Pietà.
The other was Assumption of Mary. All around it is super Baroque. But, again, here was an image that called to mind both the Dormition and Assumption of Mary, the second I noticed on this trip.
The other altars in the church were all no-doubt-about-it Baroque.
The New Sanctuary was very recent, from a 2001 renovation. Behind the 1640s iron trellis was the high altar which is reminded me very much of the churches in Prague, all silver statues and swirly marble. This was the second place on this trip that a particular church decoration was noted for its being some prime example of its style north of the Alps. In Kraków it was the Sigismund Chapel. Here in Luzern it was the High Altar, the only Baroque altar North of the Alps. Also behind the trellis were the choir stalls, gorgeous carved wood, and still used by the canons that reside here.
The Hofkirche had its own phone app available for iPhone and Android, in German or English. I wish I had this before we went, but it can be used as a virtual tour. The app showed all kinds of interesting pictures of features I couldn't photograph well or even see, like one of a carved Jesus that is lowered from the ceiling on the Feast of the Ascension and then raised again.
From here the kids and I walked up the hills to find the medieval wall and string of towers that once protected Luzern. I wasn't sure I was leading the kids the right way until I saw this, possibly drawn by a resident who was tired of tourists walking into his driveway or asking for directions.
Watchtowers were first built high above Luzern in the 1180s, with the Museggmauer (Musegg Wall) built in 1386 to connect the towers. Those nine that currently stand along this ridge were built over centuries of use, and at least one predates the wall. Four of the towers are open to the public, but, unfortunately for us, not after 1 November. I had been hoping, too, for the kids to see the Zytturm, the tower with a 16th century clock on it. We caught a glimpse of it through the trees on our way up the hill, but not the clock side again as we walked along the Museggmauer.
Had we been a few weeks earlier we could have scaled the Schirmerturm (built in 1420).
We walked through an opening in the Museggmauer at that tower and continued along a path that lead past five more towers on the way to the river.
Walls and towers--AGAIN. Everywhere we go.
The Wachturm was built in 1577, destroyed in 1701 when lightning struck the gunpowder stored there, and was rebuilt over the period of 1768 to 1895.
The Leugislandturm's origins date back to 1367. It was renovated in 2002.
The Männliturm had the cutest name, "Little Man Tower," so called because of the little soldier that had been perched on the top for centuries.
It would have been cool to see Luzern from the wall or one of the towers, but that was not to happen this time. So we just had to settle for having walked half the length of the Musegg Wall to the river where it ended at the Nölliturm.
We walked (and walked and walked) back across the Old Town to see the Löwendenkmal, the Lion Monument. Along the way we couldn't help but notice all the Chinese language signs. Some were in the shopping district.
There was one, though, that I found really interesting. It was a prohibition on feeding the pigeons and swans, in multiple languages, including Chinese. I should point out that the English came first.
It was something I probably should have known; Luzern was popular with Chinese tourists. It wasn't on the tour that Evan Osnos made for the New Yorker a few years back, but when I googled "Chinese tourists Luzern" there were so many articles and essays out there. What drew us to Luzern that day was the same as what draws Chinese tourists, the stunning city and its gorgeous surroundings. Chinese people were also probably there for the watches, too, which were not on our list that day.
When we arrived at the Lion Monument, we ran into busloads of Chinese tourists. Myles and I, to amuse ourselves as we navigated through the crowds to get a picture, spoke to one another in Mandarin. And we got looks.
The Lion Monument was carved in memory of the Swiss mercenaries who died at the Tuileries in 1792. Myles wondered aloud why we were visiting such a sad carving. I told him it was better than a peeing statue. But yes, it was very tragic, though it was hard to get a sense of that amidst the throngs of other tourists, regardless of their nationality.
On the way out of that area I saw a Caucasian woman holding a sign in Chinese and a few pamphlets fanned out in her other hand.
"耶稣是谁," I read.
She was surprised. "You can read Chinese?"
"Only a little. Like that (pointing) is pretty basic. Can't you?" I didn't think it was strange question to ask. She was holding up a sign and leaflets in Chinese.
"Oh, no. I can't even speak it. I am hoping to go there someday, though. I just stand here with the information and hope one of them are interested."
She learned that we lived in China for a long time, and she expressed more wishful thinking about going to there herself. I wished her luck, with all her endeavors, noting to myself that even the evangelizers had come to expect Chinese tourists.
It was getting late in the afternoon, but it was still light enough to squeeze one more thing in before Randy was due to arrive back. Away from the Lion Monument we dashed down to the Kappellbrücke, This wooden truss bridge was built originally in the 14th century not only as a way to get from one side of the Reuss to the other, but also as part of the ramparts. It was shortened several times over the years, and then was severely damamged in a 1993 fire.
At one end of the bridge stands the Chapel of St. Peter, the very chapel that gives the bridge its name.
The trusses since the 17th century held two triangular painting each, one on each side. The paintings were scenes from Luzern's history, lives of the patron saints, and so on. Those trusses that were completely replaced after the fire and the paintings beyond salvage were kept open and empty. Those panels that survived the fire were still on display, even in a charred state.
Paintings depicting the life of St. Mauritius had been removed during one of the several reconfigurations over the centuries. These were brought out of storage and hung again on the bridge.
At the other end of the bridge, across from the Chapel was the Wasserturm. Interestingly, this never functioned as a water tower, but rather got its name because was built in the water.
I was approaching overload on how beautiful Luzern was. And the end of our daylight.
Randy had messaged me, too, that he would be leaving his meeting. Myles, Brigid, and I sought a place where he could easily find us and we might get supper.
Luzern was one of those places that I've visited that could drive me to obssession thinking about returning. There was something about it, even as little as I saw of the city, that bore into my imagination and affected me. I really must go back. What do I have to do to make that happen, I will ponder for a very long time.
Now that our trip is done, I am wishing we could have gone to Luzern long ago, and also hoping that it might happen again. Walking around Luzern on a cloudless November day was like walking around a happy dream.
More after the jump
The kids and I spent the day wandering around Luzern until Randy was done with his meeting south of there and met up with us for supper. From the Luzern train station, we walked over a bridge toward the Old Town to take in the views of Lake Luzern and the Alps.
While many other German-speaking cantons in Switzerland joined the Reformation, Luzern remained more strongly Catholic. The churches here were different from those in Zürich.
We had time to visit one of these churches, the Church of St. Leodegar, also known as Hofkirche. The Catholic presence at this site dates back to at least 735, the earliest know written mention of a monastery dedicated to St. Mauritius. During his reign, Pepin the Short donated to the monastery services of five freedmen. In the 1100s it was attached to the Provostship of Murbach and was then renamed in honor of St. Leodegar. There are periods in the history where the records of ownership and control were unclear, and, as history of this part of the world went, the Habsburgs made an appearance (1291-1415). The church was built, rebuilt, remodeled, et cetera, until it featured high twin towers sometime in the early 1500s.
The older church burned on Easter Morning in 1633, so the West Front entrance was (obviously) built after that. The towers were greatly reduced, but some part of those standing today were from the 16th century construction. The historical information I have notes that the current towers are not nearly as high as they were before.
The narthex was beautiful. There were six statues, five of which were saved from the 1633 fire, in recesses along the walls. It was like entering through a gallery. The older church was Gothic in style, so these statues would have been on the facade. In this picture are St. Nicholas, St. Mauritius, and St. Clement (the newest of the six).
Both St. Leodegar and St. Mauritius are commemorated on the carved wooden doors. Above the entrance, still in wood, is St. Beatus driving away a dragon.
Looking inside.
I love baptisteries. In many modern churches we only have a font, sometimes just off to the side, and not a dedicated chapel. The Hofkirche font was carved from black marble by Niklaus Geissler. It became the model for Swiss Catholic baptismal fonts afterwards.
There were at least two altars that were salvaged after the fire. Originally in the Gothic style, they were embedded ("cleverly," the church's English information says) into new altars that were in keeping with 1644 tastes.
One of these was a Pietà.
The other was Assumption of Mary. All around it is super Baroque. But, again, here was an image that called to mind both the Dormition and Assumption of Mary, the second I noticed on this trip.
The other altars in the church were all no-doubt-about-it Baroque.
The New Sanctuary was very recent, from a 2001 renovation. Behind the 1640s iron trellis was the high altar which is reminded me very much of the churches in Prague, all silver statues and swirly marble. This was the second place on this trip that a particular church decoration was noted for its being some prime example of its style north of the Alps. In Kraków it was the Sigismund Chapel. Here in Luzern it was the High Altar, the only Baroque altar North of the Alps. Also behind the trellis were the choir stalls, gorgeous carved wood, and still used by the canons that reside here.
The Hofkirche had its own phone app available for iPhone and Android, in German or English. I wish I had this before we went, but it can be used as a virtual tour. The app showed all kinds of interesting pictures of features I couldn't photograph well or even see, like one of a carved Jesus that is lowered from the ceiling on the Feast of the Ascension and then raised again.
From here the kids and I walked up the hills to find the medieval wall and string of towers that once protected Luzern. I wasn't sure I was leading the kids the right way until I saw this, possibly drawn by a resident who was tired of tourists walking into his driveway or asking for directions.
Watchtowers were first built high above Luzern in the 1180s, with the Museggmauer (Musegg Wall) built in 1386 to connect the towers. Those nine that currently stand along this ridge were built over centuries of use, and at least one predates the wall. Four of the towers are open to the public, but, unfortunately for us, not after 1 November. I had been hoping, too, for the kids to see the Zytturm, the tower with a 16th century clock on it. We caught a glimpse of it through the trees on our way up the hill, but not the clock side again as we walked along the Museggmauer.
Had we been a few weeks earlier we could have scaled the Schirmerturm (built in 1420).
We walked through an opening in the Museggmauer at that tower and continued along a path that lead past five more towers on the way to the river.
Walls and towers--AGAIN. Everywhere we go.
The Wachturm was built in 1577, destroyed in 1701 when lightning struck the gunpowder stored there, and was rebuilt over the period of 1768 to 1895.
The Leugislandturm's origins date back to 1367. It was renovated in 2002.
The Männliturm had the cutest name, "Little Man Tower," so called because of the little soldier that had been perched on the top for centuries.
It would have been cool to see Luzern from the wall or one of the towers, but that was not to happen this time. So we just had to settle for having walked half the length of the Musegg Wall to the river where it ended at the Nölliturm.
We walked (and walked and walked) back across the Old Town to see the Löwendenkmal, the Lion Monument. Along the way we couldn't help but notice all the Chinese language signs. Some were in the shopping district.
There was one, though, that I found really interesting. It was a prohibition on feeding the pigeons and swans, in multiple languages, including Chinese. I should point out that the English came first.
It was something I probably should have known; Luzern was popular with Chinese tourists. It wasn't on the tour that Evan Osnos made for the New Yorker a few years back, but when I googled "Chinese tourists Luzern" there were so many articles and essays out there. What drew us to Luzern that day was the same as what draws Chinese tourists, the stunning city and its gorgeous surroundings. Chinese people were also probably there for the watches, too, which were not on our list that day.
When we arrived at the Lion Monument, we ran into busloads of Chinese tourists. Myles and I, to amuse ourselves as we navigated through the crowds to get a picture, spoke to one another in Mandarin. And we got looks.
The Lion Monument was carved in memory of the Swiss mercenaries who died at the Tuileries in 1792. Myles wondered aloud why we were visiting such a sad carving. I told him it was better than a peeing statue. But yes, it was very tragic, though it was hard to get a sense of that amidst the throngs of other tourists, regardless of their nationality.
On the way out of that area I saw a Caucasian woman holding a sign in Chinese and a few pamphlets fanned out in her other hand.
"耶稣是谁," I read.
She was surprised. "You can read Chinese?"
"Only a little. Like that (pointing) is pretty basic. Can't you?" I didn't think it was strange question to ask. She was holding up a sign and leaflets in Chinese.
"Oh, no. I can't even speak it. I am hoping to go there someday, though. I just stand here with the information and hope one of them are interested."
She learned that we lived in China for a long time, and she expressed more wishful thinking about going to there herself. I wished her luck, with all her endeavors, noting to myself that even the evangelizers had come to expect Chinese tourists.
It was getting late in the afternoon, but it was still light enough to squeeze one more thing in before Randy was due to arrive back. Away from the Lion Monument we dashed down to the Kappellbrücke, This wooden truss bridge was built originally in the 14th century not only as a way to get from one side of the Reuss to the other, but also as part of the ramparts. It was shortened several times over the years, and then was severely damamged in a 1993 fire.
At one end of the bridge stands the Chapel of St. Peter, the very chapel that gives the bridge its name.
The trusses since the 17th century held two triangular painting each, one on each side. The paintings were scenes from Luzern's history, lives of the patron saints, and so on. Those trusses that were completely replaced after the fire and the paintings beyond salvage were kept open and empty. Those panels that survived the fire were still on display, even in a charred state.
Paintings depicting the life of St. Mauritius had been removed during one of the several reconfigurations over the centuries. These were brought out of storage and hung again on the bridge.
At the other end of the bridge, across from the Chapel was the Wasserturm. Interestingly, this never functioned as a water tower, but rather got its name because was built in the water.
I was approaching overload on how beautiful Luzern was. And the end of our daylight.
Randy had messaged me, too, that he would be leaving his meeting. Myles, Brigid, and I sought a place where he could easily find us and we might get supper.
Luzern was one of those places that I've visited that could drive me to obssession thinking about returning. There was something about it, even as little as I saw of the city, that bore into my imagination and affected me. I really must go back. What do I have to do to make that happen, I will ponder for a very long time.
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