Kraków
Our first stop was Kraków. Randy had been here before, last fall, for a supplier conference for one of his customers. The conference is an annual event, so since he had not been to visit any of his other European customers yet this year, his trip expanded enough that we saw it as another opportunity for all of us to go with him.
Kraków was a delight at every turn. The conference was held at a hotel across and down the Wisła from the center of town. It was a little bit of a walk for us heading to the Wawel Cathedral, but the view across the river was worth it.
More after the jump
Our first morning, with Randy in his meetings, the kids and I wandered around a little bit. We didn't go into the Royal Castle, waiting to do this with Randy once he was done.
Just outside the walls is this sculpture of a dragon, representing the legendary dragon that once lived under the hill and was slain by King Krak, the founder of Kraków. Much to the excitement of my kids (but elusive of my photographing), the dragon breathes fire every few minutes.
We continued along the river. Brigid squealed at the sight of swans, and maybe I did, too.
Walking over to Park Jordana, we enjoyed the fall leaves.
After so many hours on the planes, I thought the kids really needed some run around time at the park.
We also stopped for coffee and browsing at Massolit Books, a wonderful English-language bookstore. I have an affection for bookstores anyway, but since moving abroad I am especially fascinated by the idea of a specifically English-language bookstore (like Beijing's Bookworm, for instance). How does such a need exist? How does one go about starting one? And do they all have the feeling of being somewhere special?
Cozy English-language bookstores need coffee, too, don't they?
Around then Randy was done with his meetings, so we had the next day and a half to explore the older, more recognizable parts of Kraków. Of course, we began at Wawel Castle. This had been the residence of Polish kings for centuries, while Kraków was the capital of Poland.
Central to Wawel Castle is the Wawel Cathedral. The current building was begun in the 14th century, replacing two previously destroyed structures, the earlier of which dated to the 10th century. Over the years, chapels were added to create this patchwork church.
At the entrance, large animal bones hang from iron chains at the entrance of the Cathedral. They were at one time believed to be the bones of the dragon defeated by King Krak. Kind of an odd thing to see at a Cathedral, but sometimes we do need to be reminded that dragons can be beaten.
Inside the Cathedral, dedicated to Sts. Stanislaus and Wenceslaus, I was surprised at how small the church actually was. For a major Cathedral and a coronation church to boot, I was expecting maybe not the Kölner Dom, but something like St. Vitus. Photographs must not have been permitted, because I have none.
Also in the Cathedral-Castle complex, we climbed the not-terribly-high bell tower. Along the way to the top, several retired bells hung in the tower.
Another important stop was the Bishop's residence, part of which is used as the Cathedral Museum. It contains vestments and art that have belonged to the Cathedral for hundreds of years, as well as a bit about Pope St. John Paul II. Again, no photographs of the collection were allowed.
One of the places I had been hoping to visit was the Czartoryski Museum, if only just to take the kids to see Lady with an Ermine. Seeing a painting by Leonardo da Vinci is a pretty rare opportunity for us, and even rarer to see Lady with an Ermine in her collection. I was disappointed then, that the Museum is undergoing renovations, and I believed this meant we would be out of luck. This one painting, though, has been moved into the Castle complex, and for a few złoty more, we could see her. Again, no pictures, but it was quite an experience.
Myles in particular was quite taken with the painting. Brigid, surprised me. I wasn't sure how much she was paying attention, but when we went back outside, she noticed the poster.
"Why did they make it look like she's sitting in this courtyard? She isn't in the painting in there."
In Stare Miasto, we saw several more churches (including churches where Pope St. John Paul and St. Maximillian Kolbe said Mass when they were young priests in Krakow) both inside and out, as well as the Cloth Hall (where we shopped for amber, something both kids really wanted to see on this trip to Krakow, and the more bugs and leaves, the better), and the Town Hall Tower.
Our time in Kraków was short, and as our first stop, we weren't able to do too much. If we were to go again, we would want at least a few more days so we could see more of the churches, the synagogues and the Salt Mines. Depending on how old the kids are, we would also want to devote a day to Auschwitz. I am saying "if we were to go again" when I really wish I could say "when we go again" because I really liked Kraków that much.
Kraków was a delight at every turn. The conference was held at a hotel across and down the Wisła from the center of town. It was a little bit of a walk for us heading to the Wawel Cathedral, but the view across the river was worth it.
More after the jump
Our first morning, with Randy in his meetings, the kids and I wandered around a little bit. We didn't go into the Royal Castle, waiting to do this with Randy once he was done.
Just outside the walls is this sculpture of a dragon, representing the legendary dragon that once lived under the hill and was slain by King Krak, the founder of Kraków. Much to the excitement of my kids (but elusive of my photographing), the dragon breathes fire every few minutes.
We continued along the river. Brigid squealed at the sight of swans, and maybe I did, too.
Walking over to Park Jordana, we enjoyed the fall leaves.
After so many hours on the planes, I thought the kids really needed some run around time at the park.
We also stopped for coffee and browsing at Massolit Books, a wonderful English-language bookstore. I have an affection for bookstores anyway, but since moving abroad I am especially fascinated by the idea of a specifically English-language bookstore (like Beijing's Bookworm, for instance). How does such a need exist? How does one go about starting one? And do they all have the feeling of being somewhere special?
Cozy English-language bookstores need coffee, too, don't they?
Around then Randy was done with his meetings, so we had the next day and a half to explore the older, more recognizable parts of Kraków. Of course, we began at Wawel Castle. This had been the residence of Polish kings for centuries, while Kraków was the capital of Poland.
Central to Wawel Castle is the Wawel Cathedral. The current building was begun in the 14th century, replacing two previously destroyed structures, the earlier of which dated to the 10th century. Over the years, chapels were added to create this patchwork church.
At the entrance, large animal bones hang from iron chains at the entrance of the Cathedral. They were at one time believed to be the bones of the dragon defeated by King Krak. Kind of an odd thing to see at a Cathedral, but sometimes we do need to be reminded that dragons can be beaten.
Inside the Cathedral, dedicated to Sts. Stanislaus and Wenceslaus, I was surprised at how small the church actually was. For a major Cathedral and a coronation church to boot, I was expecting maybe not the Kölner Dom, but something like St. Vitus. Photographs must not have been permitted, because I have none.
Also in the Cathedral-Castle complex, we climbed the not-terribly-high bell tower. Along the way to the top, several retired bells hung in the tower.
Another important stop was the Bishop's residence, part of which is used as the Cathedral Museum. It contains vestments and art that have belonged to the Cathedral for hundreds of years, as well as a bit about Pope St. John Paul II. Again, no photographs of the collection were allowed.
One of the places I had been hoping to visit was the Czartoryski Museum, if only just to take the kids to see Lady with an Ermine. Seeing a painting by Leonardo da Vinci is a pretty rare opportunity for us, and even rarer to see Lady with an Ermine in her collection. I was disappointed then, that the Museum is undergoing renovations, and I believed this meant we would be out of luck. This one painting, though, has been moved into the Castle complex, and for a few złoty more, we could see her. Again, no pictures, but it was quite an experience.
Myles in particular was quite taken with the painting. Brigid, surprised me. I wasn't sure how much she was paying attention, but when we went back outside, she noticed the poster.
"Why did they make it look like she's sitting in this courtyard? She isn't in the painting in there."
In Stare Miasto, we saw several more churches (including churches where Pope St. John Paul and St. Maximillian Kolbe said Mass when they were young priests in Krakow) both inside and out, as well as the Cloth Hall (where we shopped for amber, something both kids really wanted to see on this trip to Krakow, and the more bugs and leaves, the better), and the Town Hall Tower.
Our time in Kraków was short, and as our first stop, we weren't able to do too much. If we were to go again, we would want at least a few more days so we could see more of the churches, the synagogues and the Salt Mines. Depending on how old the kids are, we would also want to devote a day to Auschwitz. I am saying "if we were to go again" when I really wish I could say "when we go again" because I really liked Kraków that much.
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