Ein Prosit der Gemütlichkeit

Saturday night our family enjoyed one of best times we have since moving to China. All it took was amazing food, great beer, live music and the wonderful company of a friend and a few hundred of her fellow singing and dancing Germans at Beijing Oktoberfest.

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More scenes from the beer tent after the jump.


About a month ago my German friend Jenny invited us to celebrate Oktoberfest with her here in Beijing. The Hotel Kempinski (where our family often observes big Western feasts here in China) hosted the event, as they have for the last twenty years.  At first I considered that we might have to decline. We thought we would have to find a sitter, something we've never been able to do in China, or worse, have only one of us to attend, while the other parent remained at home with the kids. I also knew that attending without the kids would not be well received by them, especially since Myles has no greater affection for any cuisine than he does German food. Jenny advised us it was fine to bring Myles and Brigid. After we arrived Saturday night, we realized that Oktoberfest can truly be a family outing. There were so many families in attendance, and most of them and their kids outlasted us!

Before the party Saturday afternoon, Jenny posted to twitter an illustration of the proper way for a woman to tie her dirndl for the benefit of the ladies attending Oktoberfest that evening. Believing she was joking, I responded to her with an apology that we were planning on wearing jeans. I knew I seriously underestimated the level of celebration we were in for when she replied to me, "That's okay, not everyone's going to be in Dirndl & Lederhosen. It's just that for Germans in exile, this is the only chance to!"

When we arrived Jenny was already there, in her gorgeous dirndl. She brought it with her from Germany for such rare occassions. I loved, too, that she chose this particular color combination, red and black, because she is from the Black Forest region.

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We quickly ordered our food and beer. Myles stuffed himself with two of his favorite German foods, bread and sausage, and Brigid mostly enjoyed pretzels. Randy had Spätzle. I ordered Semmegnedl, a bread dumpling and egg dish that was delicious and unlike anything I had ever eaten. There were also plates of all kinds of meat products passed around.

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We washed our meals down with Paulaner Oktober Beer. Or in Myles' case, with his beloved Apfelschorle. They served his in a giant Oktoberfest stein, which he thoroughly enjoyed, mostly as an important accessory to the singing later.

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The band was already playing while we ate. They didn't perform too many rousing Oktoberfest favorites at that time, short of the occassional "Ein Prosit," heralded with a trumpet and then sung by everyone like a communal hymn. The singing was followed by the deep clanking of steins. Gsuffa!

As the plates were cleared, the music and the dancing picked up. There were polkas, some of which I recognized the tune, though not necessarily the words, as growing up in Pennsylvania I heard them sung in English, Polish, or Slovene. We had conga lines, and songs that required linked arms around the tables.
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And then the serious Oktoberfest dancing on tables and benches began.

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You didn't think he was going to miss this chance, did you?

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Brigid preferred the dance floor near the band to the benches and tables.

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There was such a variety of songs. Like "When the Saints go Marching In," featuring an alpenhorn, and a selection from the Blues Brothers.

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Later in the evening came many songs typical of a contemporary Oktoberfest, like "Cowboy und Indianen" and "Fliegerlied," both requiring a lot of motions corresponding to the lyrics, and what may be our new favorite song, "Viva Colonia."

I was not aware that "Country Roads" was a very popular Oktoberfest standard. The lyrics were even included in a souvenier booklet to help with singing along. The quality of this video is not great, but gives the feel for how the song drew everyone in.


I don't know if it is because most of the Germans attending were expat Germans, but the overwhelming sense that they were all just extremely happy about being Germans really struck me. There are other attitudes that are commonly associated with German identity--proud, fortunate-feeling, perhaps sometimes even a little bit arrogant. I am certain I've never encountered such pure German happiness before this. It was.....indescribable.

It was such an incredible night that it was nearly impossible to drag ourselves away. Randy and I agreed that if we remain here another year, Beijing Oktoberfest must be one of our annual traditions.

Comments

RoseL said…
I discovered your blog while I was living in Germany, and I've enjoyed catching a glimpse of your life in China ever since. Germany is different, but nothing compared to China. I couldn't resist commenting on "Country Roads." Every German learns that song in kindergarten as part of their introduction to English. I was surprised when the song came on and my son, then three, could sing right along.
Jen Ambrose said…
Ok. That explains a lot. Now I am really intrigued about how many children's songs are a part of Oktoberfest. Songs like "So schoener ein Tag"