Immaculate Conception, Hangzhou

Our visit to the Immaculate Conception Cathedral in Hangzhou was full of surprises.  I was not expecting anything, really, except a hope to photograph the exterior of one of the oldest Catholic churches in China. Completed in 1661, this church was originally built under the supervision of none other than Italian Jesuit Martino Martini.  History has been kind to this church; unlike so many others in this country it was not completely destroyed in Christian-purging times.  It has spent years as a Daoist Temple and a factory, but since being returned to the Catholic community it has been restored beautifully.

The church itself is not difficult to find.  It is on a major commerical street, Zhongshanbei Lu, and it is not behind any walls or other structure.  Right on the sidewalk statues of Jesus and Mary flank the church property's entrance.

Behind Jesus, some people sat under a canopy.  At first it looked to me like it was some sort of commercial promotion, which of course made me think of the money changers in the temple.  However, when they beckoned to us, I realized it was instead a group of parishioners ready to offer shade and water to anyone who might need it on such a hot and humid day.

It was threatening rain when we arrived, and the skies made good on that promise.  We were ushered into the closest open shelter, the little parish bookstore, as it poured. They were surprised, actually, that we took this as an opportunity to browse rather than just idly wait out the rain. There were the usual devotional pictures and inexpensive Crucifixes and Rosaries that we've seen in nearly every church in China we've visited.  Myles wanted a new small cross for his shelf, and he picked out a necklace for Brigid.  I asked my usual impossible request in hope: Do you have any books that are in English and Chinese?  I was surprised, then, that at this particular church they did have something, one last copy of a Chinese-English reference book of popular Bible verses, prayers, Pope's names, Christian vocabulary, and so much more, published by the Catholic press in Hebei. My guess is that is was published as a dictionary for people reading imported English-language materials.  For only 8 RMB (less than $1.50) I absolutely had to have it.  I also bought a picture of the church printed on a heavy piece of glass commemorating the 350th year of the start of construction by Martini for only a few dollars.

As I paid our bill, the rain stopped.  Once back outside, I noticed that one of the church doors was open, another surprise.  I asked it it was okay to go inside.  Of course, was the answer.  I went inside and prayed for a while (yes, even with kids, though Myles said a brief prayer that he wrote and rehearsed on the way to the Church in the cab, and then went back to playing outside).  I was a little embarrassed, too, at the hospitality they showed me.  Someone was concerned it was too hot inside the church for me, so ceiling fans and an A/C unit were turned on for my benefit. It was really nice of them, though. 

Before we left we spent a little time talking to the parishioners there. Among them were several deaf people signing as well as a few hearing people who interpreted between us.  Myles was very interested in Chinese sign language especially after he realized it was not the same as American Sign Language (and for more detailed discussions on the variations of Chinese Sign Language, check out these posts from John of Sinosplice).  We asked them about some of the Chinese signs for words we knew in ASL, like "Thank you."  We also learned the Chinese sign for "Jesus," as well as a few other words as well.  It seems that our genuine interest in signing was a surprise to them, too.

Nothing expected and yet it all a surprise. 

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Posted Mass times are weekdays at 6:30 AM, Sundays at 6:30 and 8:30 AM and 7:00 PM, and Saturdays in English at 6:30 PM. And yes, every bit of this schedule, from the number of Masses to their offering a regular English Mass, came as a surprise.