Pentecost in Xi'an
Late Monday night we returned home from a weekend trip to Xi'an. This is, of course, the home of the famous Terracotta Warriors, but that post will come later.
I was really looking forward to going to Mass in Xi'an. Xi'an is the home of Bishop Li Du'an, whom I did not expect to see, but I was excited to experience Mass in his diocese, in his Cathedral. I could not imagine this man having anything but a deep impact on Catholic life in his diocese. What a fantastic Mass experience we did have!
I have to admit here that we were late, arriving just in time to hear the end of the Gospel proclaimed. I hedged my bets, so to speak, having read or heard Mass times of 7 am and 8 am from a few different sources. You can't blame me for not wanting to be more than an hour early for Mass with these kids in tow, or miss it entirely, so we were a just a little late. I hope God forgives that.
We had to sit in the rear of the church, in the vestibule, because the church was that packed. More people arrived even after us, and attendance of this Mass reached out the door. I can't tell you the music was the best I've heard at a Chinese Mass (that would actually be Shanghai Cathedral), or that I had a heart-stopping moment that may have changed me for a very long time (that would be Good Friday and Easter Vigil at the Beijing Seminary), or that I felt most at home at this parish (I miss Nantou!). But what I can say is that the Mass here was outstanding without having a single one thing I can single out from the entire liturgy. Maybe my view was colored by my anticipation that something would be special about Xi'an. Can I just say it just was?
And now for the pictures. I had to wait a while for the church to clear out a little bit because so many people, most in attendance, were involved in some post-Mass devotions. Many were praying/chanting in unison the same litanies I have heard now all over China, but others also were more quietly gathered in other areas of the church praying as well.
Outside
Just inside the door. All three doors in leading from the narthex (is that the right word?) to the sanctuary had paintings above and around them. My best photo is of this one in the center. I also tweeted a view of this after Mass. The tweet pic, by the way, was taken during Mass, but I tweeted after Mass, and to make that clear I tweeted about being at Starbucks.
The Cathedral is consecrated to St. Francis.
Since it is May, here's Mary. There are also images in the church of St. Joseph, St. Anthony, and, of course, St. Therese.
The painted decoration of the interior of the church is really quite something to behold. It is very fitting of a Cathedral in Xi'an.
Had I not spiked a high fever later that afternoon, I would have been tempted to return to the Sunday evening Mass just to spend more time at this wonderful church.
Of course, everyone, and especially the sisters, were wonderful and welcoming, but not overly so.
Mass times at the Cathedral are on Sundays and Feast Days 7 am, 10 am, and 7 pm. On weekdays, daily Masses are at 6:30 am and 7 pm. When English language Masses are held, they are normally on Sundays at 3:30 pm, but they are not regularly scheduled. People who contact the Cathedral directly can be helped in Chinese, English, or Italian. Bishop Li and his auxiliary Bishop Dan are both approved by the Vatican and the Chinese authorities.
I did not get to see two of the other Christian sites that interested me--the Nestorian stone and the site of a church that was built by Jesuit Adam Schall. Perhaps on another visit someday.
Comments
But when I enlarged the picture, I noticed two things about the face. First of all, this is a much younger woman than in most of the version of this icon which I have seen, as if the artist thought he was supposed to represent Mary as the young mother of a baby, whereas the icon isn't representative or limited to one time in her life. This Mary has a rather characterless face. Most versions of this icon show a Mary with lines of suffering on her face. One angel, after all, is showing her the cross, and the other one is showing her the mallet with which the nails were driven, and the spear with which His side was pierced!
Also,in every icon of OLPH which I have seen, Mary is looking straight at the person looking at the icon. A Redemptorist priest told me she is saying "Look what your sins have done/are going to do, to my son." This virgin has her eyes cast down. It doesn't really look as if she is looking at the baby. It just looks as if she is too shy to look you in the eye.
Is there something Chinese in this?
Susan Peterson
One is that the painting was probably not painted by an icon artist but rather a skilled painter. An icon artist, of course, would pay very close to the proper details of an icon. Another is that it would not surprise me that the artist copied this image from another image, maybe from a book, and such precise details might not be visible.
I'm short on good historical info of this church like I have on others (most notably St. Ignatius in Shanghai and St. Paul in Nantou). I'd love to learn more about the decoration of this church and the artist and origins of the paintings, including OLPH.