Not quite the end of the earth

Well, Changping isn't the end of the world, but as far as many foreigners who live in Beijing are concerned, it might as well be.



When we first started talking about relocating to Beijing, I began to be excited about the possibility of being able to access more cultural and historical places, maybe even get back into the world of contemporary art. Shenzhen did offer some of this to us, but Beijing just has so much more. However, what I didn't count on is how far outside of Beijing we would be living.


I've been in touch with a friend of a friend that recently moved from Shenzhen to Beijing. She hadn't heard of Changping. I'm in need of downsizing our belongings now that we have arrived, with one bathroom less and 20 Square meters smaller space than we had in Shenzhen. I tried posting on Beijing's Freecycle website, partly to offload some stuff and partly maybe to meet other foreigners that might also be in my same or at least similar boat. Most of the respondants had also never heard of Changping. When I check out expat online forums, and someone posts a question about how to get from Changping to somewhere, the responses are rarely helpful. They are usually along the lines of "why the *expletive* do you live there?"


Some of the women in the foreign women's club back in Shenzhen expressed envy at my move; Beijing is considered a top expat assignment. I can't wait for the chance to visit their world; it promises to be glorious. They have western-style bakeries, and organic groceries, and clothing stores where an extra large isn't a US size 6, and Starbucks, and ENGLISH BOOKSTORES. Near these places are art galleries and museums, historical churches and all kids of ancient temples and cool parks. I don't expect a city in China to provide such luxuries and things of my own particular interest. I will, however, take adantage of such things if they do exist.


We came here not as true expats but as, what I've seen termed elsewhere as "half-pats," foreigners that are treated as local hires. Of course, this also means that we have to live within our means. Rents in those foreigner neighborhoods in Beijing are ridiculously high and usually paid by the employers. Transportation costs for Randy to and from work have to be considered as well. We are still trying to figure out Myles' education (school vs. homeschool), and that might be the factor that causes us to move again, but we don't know yet.


It's been quite the adjustment for us coming from where we did in Shenzhen. I joke with Randy that I didn't come to China to live like a rich foreigner, but I really didn't mind living like a rich Chinese person. I don't want it to sound like I think we are slumming here in Beijing. We aren't. But it is a much larger adjustment than I expected. I thought all we would be dealing with was colder temperatures, and other than that I could just be transplanting my Shenzhen life here. It doesn't work that way with any move; I know. But I really thought that this move wouldn't be such a shock to my system. I mean, I'm still in China, aren't I?

I suspect its the isolation I think I feel that is behind this culture shock. I'm not really isolated. I just feel that way because my scope is limited to only about three or four blocks around the apartment complex. As I expand that scope to include my capably finding my way around on my own, I think I will feel comfortable again. Getting to Mass again (more on that later) will be a big help. And once the apartment is unpacked and clean and we've supplemented the meager furnishings provided with some necessary drawered things, I'll probably have a much better attitude. Right now, with everything a real mess, all I can think about at times is how much I miss living in a real garden with real stores within walking distance, and Hong Kong only a bus ride away. Compared to now, I was really spoiled there.

I am truly looking forward to coming months when I can blog about how awesome it is to live in Beijing, and in particular, this out-of-the-mainstream part of Beijing. I really enjoy giving the impression that life in China is a great adventure, because 1) I don't want my mom to worry and 2) it can be. It isn't always that great, but it can be unexpectedly amazing.

Comments

Nancy said…
I have never lived in another country and I consider you and your husband very brave. You have done so well adjusting to the culture. Even more than that, I imagine that this experience for your children will be priceless as well.
Your friends are never more than a few computer clicks away!
You've helped me (in many ways) to be more conscious of the material things that I can sometimes take for granted. I was really struck by your picture of the refrigerator. I complain that mine isn't big enough and how I hate cleaning it! I bet you use the smaller one more efficiently than I do...shopping differently and thinking more about things.
That google map is interesting....you are quite a bit away from the main area of Beijing. How far would that be in miles...do you know?
Jen Ambrose said…
thanks, nancy. I think you are the brave one.
anyway, we are about 25-30 miles from the center of Beijing.
Anonymous said…
Ambrose -
Really enjoyed this reflection. I agree with Nancy in that one of the best things about your blog is the resilience you and your family show when adjusting to new things. And this resilience seems to come from your Catholic faith and from your family. At the same time, you're not afraid to admit those little things that get you through (Starbucks!).
Thanks,
N.B.
globalgal said…
Well, I had to comment on this one, too. I have loved very much my life in a "little" town in China, but I am now longing for the things you mention in this post - especially art and music events, bakeries, English bookstores, Starbucks! Oh, there I go making myself sad... I guess it's time for a trip to McDonald's for some 6RMB coffee!
Jen Ambrose said…
Global Gal, there are certainly things to like about being outside of expatland. I never have to wear make-up or blow-dry my hair, and I'm not ashamed to go out of the house without a good pedicure. But I was spoiled in Shenzhen, even living among upper middle class locals, because they like Starbucks and Carrefour, too.